Welcome to my life in Ghana. I initially was skeptical about writing a blog, but I have discovered that I personally have a need to share my experiences as well as keep a record for myself of specific events.
My adventure in Ghana began a little over a month ago with a flight into Accra, the capital city. We arrived at around 10pm which for Ghana is quite late. The sun sets like clockwork at 6:30PM. Arriving in Ghana and not knowing who you are looking for, and what people want to take your bags for money or who is legit is quite the experience. After an initial shock we arrived at the Coconut Grove Hotel. This hotel is considered very high class and was a great experience. The hotel is actually owned by one of the presidential candidates in the upcoming election. He is a member of the CPP party. Staying at the hotel for a few days , the program members (myself included), got to know each other and start experiencing Ghanaian food. The food is quite amazing by the way. Some of my favorites at this time are banku with orkro stew or waakye (waa che) with noodles and an egg and plantains. One of the most amazing revelations about Ghana is the quality of the pineapple and pure pineapple juice. Heavenly!!
After leaving the hotel, we embarked for our various residences whether it be on campus or homestays. I was placed in a homestay in an area of town known as East Legon. This area is considered to be much more upscale than other areas. There was an odd collection of ridiculously nice houses along with unfinished houses and people living in run down homes. My family consists of the mother, Rejoice and her children Sammy, Bebe, Teria, Wahab, and Mubarak. Mubarak is six years old and we became quite good friends quickly. Rejoice's husband is in the army and was working in Chad and will soon be going to another African country for several months. After the first week, I had an unfortunate experience of having my computer stolen out of my house, someone cut ther screen and pulled in through the bars when I was sleeping and I woke up just in time to see him pull it out the windows, it was an unnerving experience but overall it hasn't dampened my fun and adventure and provided interesting insight into the cultural and judicial side of Ghana. All of the neighbors were very upset and kept insisting that if the person was caught they would go to jail or else get beat up pretty bad.
While on campus we engaged in the "registration" exercise, which consists of going all over campus to the various departments and using passport photos and a varying array of registration method whether ir be signing your name in a big book or entered into a computer. Every department on campus runs indeprendently so every registration was different and was quite confusing. Once I got it sorted out I was registered for several course which had to change over the next week!! My final schedule is now that I will be taking Modern European Drama, Play Analysis and Interpretation of Contemporary African Drama, Traditional Drumming, Traditional Dance, and Voice Lessons. This is all topped off with about 4 more weeks of Twi class. Learning the predominent local Akan language.
Other theatre news relates to the fact that I was cast in two theatre productions. The first is a private company putting on "Our Husband Has Gone Mad Again" which will be performing at the National Theatre of Ghana in Accra. The second is a U of Ghana production called "Witness for the Prosecution" by Agatha Christie. This will show for 4 nights at the outdoor Drama Studio and then for 4 nights again at the National Theatre. Both of my parts are small but I am very excited to be participating and learning.
One of the most interesting experiences one will have are using the taxis and Tro-Tros. The taxis are on a barter system where the driver gives you a price for your destination and then you smile and shake your head and offer half. Then you end up meeting somewhere in the middle. The ideas of seatbelts, traffic laws, pedestrian rights, and general santity on the roads are lost causes. Most of the roads are dirt with a few being paved in areas and potholes the size of which you could put a small child or goat. The tro tro experience is one which you will never forget and neither will my knees. For very cheap you get to cram yourself in a van which is very hot and crowded and has been modified to double it's "normal" capacity. While you intitally fear for your life it is something that is widely used and is really what "the people" use to travel around the city.
Suppose I should cover currency. The currency was recently redenominated from being in the 1,000s and is reduced to similar numbers as the US. The "cedi"(seedy) is relatively equal in value to the dollar and the cents are called "pesewas." Another thing taken for granted in the US is the idea of vendors having change for whatever bills you have at least up to 20 bucks. Another above the one cedi note is essentially useless. Whenever the atm gives you a ten cedi note is very hard to break it down to a smaller denomination unless you go to the mall or buy a lot of stuff.
The great thing about Ghana is the food and water(sorta). It is all quite cheap and delicious. I generally can eat lunch for about 95 pesewas depending on how much meat I get. The best invention in the world for a place where you can't drink the tap water is sachet water, or comonly referrred to as "Pure Water" Girls sell them on their heads for only 5 pesewas each and the contents abotu equal a 20 once bottle of water. The biggest downside of these is the waste and the amount of empty sachets all over the ground and clogging the "sewers".
I apologize for the essay but so much has happened to me. I really hope to get up a few pictures soon but it is difficult with the speed of internet. Speed is somewhat relative to if it's moving at all! While there are many differences and things to get used to there are just so many amazing things to see and do that are difficult to put into words. My friend Elliot and I went to a football match at the stadium in Accra and watched Liberty Professionals beat Heart of Lions 1-0. It was a fun experience and enjoyed Fanice and ghana's hotdog, the kabob.
Almost forgot!!! Fanice and Fanchoco are joining the sachet water among the worlds best inventions. Fanice products are sold my men riding bikes with large icechests and pastry boxes on the front. The fanice is vanilla icecream and the fan choco is chocolate. They sell for 30 and 40 pesewas respectively. They come in plastic sachets and add to the waste but when it's really hot and they are everywhere there is nothing better to eat and feel good about yourself.
At the end of last week I moved on campus because of a conflict of soccer and play rehearsals and the 45 minute commute from home to campus. I am now living at ISH, the International students hostel with Abraham who was one of the Ghanaians helping our program and us students to get acclimated to Ghana. He is an extremely nice guy and I was very lucky to be randomly put in his room. I might write another post in like five minutes or it may take me a week to get the page to load. Whatever the case, TIA!! Hope everyone is doing well and good luck and congrats to the Coe soccer teams for winning a bunch. hooray!!
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1 comment:
Wow! I know you already told me about some of this stuff but seeing so much info (more in depth) was really nice. I'm pretty jealous of all the interesting stuff you have been getting to do. Glad you're having a great experience in Ghana-but can't wait for you to come back home!
<3 Chelsea
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