Ada Foah

This last week has held many exciting adventures like a journey to Rum Island and battles with jellyfish!! Now that I have built up some intrigue I will get the boring stuff out of the way quickly. I have been sick for about two weeks and finally was made to go to the hospital in case I had malaria, but I just have bronchitis which is great!! I'm pretty much all better now thanks to the free and easily obtained pharmaceuticals found in Ghana. I also decided not to participate in "Our husband has gone mad again." The rehearsal schedule just interfered too much with wanting to travel. Now to the good stuff!!
This weekend I went to paradise. A little town called Ada Foah which consists of a little village and then many islands around where the Volta River meet the Atlantic Ocean. To get to this village a friend and I took a tro from Accra to Tema. This trip took around an hour and cost 50 pesewas. (50 cents) We then walked around Tema for about 40 minutes trying to find anyone who knew what we were talking about when we asked for a tro to Ada. After finally wandering through a sleepy market we stumbled across the tro station where we paid 2.20 for a 3 hour trip to Big Ada and then Ada Foah. Then came in the beauty of the bargaining system. We tried to find where to catch a canoe to take us to an island. A taxi driver tried to get us to go with him for 4 cedi up the road maybe 10 minutes and then we could catch a boat. After refusing this outrageous price we stared around in a daze trying to figure out what to do. After a minute a glorious sound of marching band filled the air and my friend exclaimed, Hooray a Parade! which we then quickly realized was a funeral. After viewing the procession a young man named Kwame approached us an offered to take us to the island for 4 cedi in his canoe. We thought he was a little sketchy but figured he was our best option. After a little journey involving a few goats and huge ducks we arrived at his little canoe and he proceeded to paddle us upriver for about 45 minutes for only 4 bucks. We were very grateful and pleased with the trip so we paid him 5. The island paradise we arrived at was amazing!! This place is a skinny island with half of the island being a river bank and the other side being an ocean beach. The accommodations were only 10 cedi a night and consisted of a "bed" (a little short) with a mosquito net and a sand floor surrounded by a thatched hut that sort of keeps the rain out. My friend Mike and I shared this fun little sleeping hut. Our activities on the island consisted of eating, drinking water, sitting on the beach, sleeping on the beach, walking on the beach, and body surfing!! The waves were incredibly fun and big which made for some intense times. On Saturday morning the fishermen were out pulling in the nets which were full of fish, shrimp, jellyfish, and one giant "thing." Literally have never seen this thing before in my life. When it was curled up it looked like a brain on the half shell. Then it unfurled and was a weird wiggling grey slug monster with a tiny shell for a face. The irony of the trip is that this was the first time that I had liberally applied sunscreen, and the first time I have been burned in Africa. That night we ate shrimp which we bought from the fishermen that morning. We probably got about five pounds of shrimp for 10 cedi. Needless to say ten of us could not finish them and we had to just give them to a couple other people on the island to enjoy. The next morning after taking my bath in the river, we started the journey home by first going to Rum Island. Rum Island is a hidden little family island that was been owned by this particular family for about 100 years and has been producing white moonshine rum for about as long. We got a tour of the "facility" and we showed how the rum is made and the sugar cane fields that they use to make the rum with. This rum probably could clean engines but is actually very smooth. The family sells this rum in 1.5 liter water bottles for 6 cedi each. Apparently they have quite a business with affluent Accra hotels making trips to the island in order to stock up and then sell this authentic Ghanaian rum which is very very cheap at very expensive prices. We then took a boat from Rum Island back to the main town and caught a tro to Accra.
Overall, this trip was one of the best times since I've been here in terms of relaxing and just being able to play in the ocean without crowds and see the sunset over palm trees and sand. Other fun things from the trip involve burying Mike under about four feet of sand and playing the hermit crabs and the little sand crabs which run around the beach.
It was actually a weird feeling after the weekend arriving back on campus and feeling like "home sweet home." Even though campus life is so different than the states, it has grown familiar and has developed a routine.
Tonight I have my rehearsal for Witness for the Prosecution and I have to be off book. AHH!! Other than than, my Twi class is almost over!! just this week left!! In a few days we will actually be half way done with the semester which is incredibly fast.
Hope everyone has an excellent day and a good week.

Cape Coast, Elmina, and Kakum National Park

This weekend the study abroad program participants went on a two day trip to Cape Coast and it's surrounding "attractions." The first part of the trip was the uplifting visit to the former slave castle called Elmina. Although I had studied the castle in African History. It was an entirely different experience to be in the location and see the incredible juxtaposition of the beauty of the land and the beach with the legacy of the trafficking of human beings. What struck me the most about the castle was how small it was in comparison to how many humans were being held inside at any given time. With our group of around 40, there were places where we felt cramped and then were told that easily five to 7 times our number were placed in these rooms. The history of the castle being originated as a Portuguese mission and being taken over by the Dutch and English for the slave trade made for an interesting history and the fact that there was a church inside the castle be an interesting hypocrisy of those who lived there. The town of Cape Coast is a fascinating place with very close built European style architecture mixed with Ghanaian markets and the tradition of painting fishing boats in incredibly bright and varied colors.
The next day we took an extreme departure from the emotionally draining Elmina Castle and traveled to Kakum National Park which is home to things such as monkeys, cobras, antelope thingys with big horns, and really tall trees. One of the most fascinating trees in the rain forest is one that can be used as a mosquito repellent, aphrodisiac, and hair growth stimulant. Quite the tree!! Another intersting flora fact were two trees we came upon fused together, where one of the trees is the wood to make the fufu pounding stick and the other is the wood used to make the bowl used to hold the materials used in fufu. The park has a pretty fun canopy walk which at some points is about 300 ft. above the ground. The one person wide rope bridges stretch from tree to tree through the forest. This adventure was a great escape from the city and huge crowds of people and to be able to appreciate the intense nature that Ghana has to offer. In this forest I also had my first cocoa in his natural form. It is actually a huge pod that contains seeds which you suck on and taste kind of sour and nothing like cocoa. I also came upon a spitting cobra who was actually quite small but was not too interested at the time in eating my face.
After the forest we ate lunch at a "Crocodile Ranch." This meaning, there was a restaurant situated over a lake which contained a good two dozen large crocodiles. These were fed using chicken on long sticks and they were pretty fun to watch attack the chicken. I actually went and touched a few of them and they are surprisingly soft and squishy.
This weekend I actually had my first warm water "bath" at the hotel we stayed at. It was really weird to feel warm water.
My major quest at this point in my life is to find some way to ever put pictures online so that you can see what I 've been writing about. Unless I find faster internet somewhere it may take about 2 or 3 weeks to mail a cd with pictures home to be put up. As usual, have a good day and lets continue the malaria free streak!!!

Answers to Some questions and other such things...

Thanks for the questions friends. I think I will address the pretty girls questions first. In all seriousness it's not unlike anywhere else in the world, there are pretty girls and there are ordinary and there are somewhat unfortunate, just seems to be the way the world works.
My absolute most favorite experiences so far have actually been just sitting someplace that is high up and being able to look over the city and just see the variety of life. It makes me never want to live in a development where all of the houses are pre-designed. Every house here is custom with a variety of colors. Some things that I am looking forward to the most involve traveling. This weekend I am going to Cape Coast, but excited for going to Kakum national park. There is a rope skywaylk over the forest that is supposed to be incredible and monkeys everywhere that play with you and steal your bananas. I am also looking forward to going to Ho, Mole National Park, and to a place called Adafoe?? Nobody we can find has a similar pronunciation for it. It is the closest place on land to the center of the world. (where the equator and prime meridian meet) It is also supposed to be ridiculously beautiful with a skinny peninsula sticking out towards the center.
Regarding Obama and the reaction here if he does not win. The attitude here is mostly that they cannot view any other result than Obama winning. When myself or others mention that it will be very close people either don't believe us or still have incredible faith. One girl I was talking with told me that she doesn't even know what McCain looks like and that his speeches are never televised here. All of Obama's speeches are televised live and then again during prime time. IF Obama loses, I really have no idea how people will react, I'm not sure if people will then dislike Americans or just think we are ridiculously dumb or what.
I have been really excited for Coe's team and how well they are doing. It really makes me miss being there for it. But I have gotten the chance to play quite a bit. Once the play rehearsals are over in mid Oct. I will probably play every day, but for now I usually play once or twice a week. My Twi class is scheduled for 4-6 mon-thur so that also kills a lot of chances. But that will be finished in a week and a half. I have to head off to drumming class now, so everyone have another great day of fall. That's actually one of the things I miss the most. actually skipping Fall will be very weird and makes me a little sad.

God and Obama

Ghana has fascinations with several key topics. These are: the Black Stars(Ghanaian national team), fufu, God and Obama. With the last two, I'm not always sure which comes first. The national trait of naming things after some manner of religious context is quite fascinating. Things with religious names stretch from stores, taxis, tro tros, bars, refrigerator stores, and wheelbarrows full of pineapples. The change in this trend is the introduction of Barack Obama. There are now several taxis and tro tros in particular who have adopted names such as "Obama Express" or the ubiquitous "Barack." There is even an incredibly popular reggae song about Obama. Most of the newspapers are quite taken with both their own elections and with Obama. The coverage is often about equal. There seems to be a sense from a select few that he will be very nice to Africa and help develop and then when he is finished as President it will be ready for him to come "home." Others feel that because of his heritage that some of his innate qualities are African so he will be a good leader.
God is another overriding but sometimes frustrating subject. The fact that every single store or enterprise is named in a religious phrase somewhat deadens the effect. It is also quite neat and often hilarious the combinations of names with what the store is selling. I have had talks about religion with Ghanaians and there is an interesting dichotomy for me with the things that I agree with and others that I completely disagree with. The concept of Jesus coming into your life and "fixing" things like homosexuality and mental disorders rather than taking people as they are and accepting that they too can have strong faith in God despite their "differences."
The separation of church and state is very much not in existence. Before and after many of my play rehearsals the cast will circle up and pray. Before some lectures as well, there will be students who come to the front and begin preaching for a good five minutes or until the lecturer shows up. Many of the lecturers have few qualms about inquiring into ones religious views or saying "Praise the Lord" or "Hallelujah" quite often. I find that while sometimes it may be awkward, overall however, it is nice having people simply be open about their spirituality rather than trying to balance their beliefs with what everyone says is acceptable.
In other news, I will hopefully be going to watch the final Black Stars World cup qualifying match in about two weeks. It should be a good game with a ridiculous atmosphere.
For anybody following along with my postings, feel free to ask questions or correct my grammar, or just say Hi. Hope everyone has a good day and stays warm, cause I know I will!!

Being Away

I'm at the point of my trip where so much time has gone by in a foreign country, but a sizeable amount of time still remains both for adventures and for missing some things at home. My internal debate has been on overdrive for a few days now about the pros and cons of life abroad and life at "home" be it Iowa or Colorado. Pros for Ghana- The atmosphere of musical and lively people surrounded by an air of relaxation and peace despite many hardships and the struggles of being poor. The Star beer is quite excellent which apparently is because it is brewed in Kumase (according to my Twi professor) It is very nice just to sit at Jerry's Spot in Accra with a few guys at 11 at night and talk about whatever days events or politics or future adventures we want to have. Finally, the spirit of adventure and the sense of a personal challenge to overcome fears and reservations about trying new things and just going head first willing to fail. The Pros of home(s)- Faster Internet. ok well maybe that's a luxury but sometimes it's just nice to have internet just work rather than hope it works at some point this weekend. Hamburgers and fries. When you've been to Ghana and eaten rice and bread and yams everyday in some form three times a day, a burger is like heaven on a plate delivered by Adam Sandler and Jon Stewart. Being around people who understand why you do things and love you for the crazy things you do. Cons of Ghana- The fact that there is this big thing known as the Atlantic Ocean between you and things familiar is at times daunting, but usually just so unimaginable because the brain (or at least mine) has difficulty comprehending how vast the distance is. Sidenote: this is definitely a great observation however, on how very little humans are different no matter where you live and what language you speak. while I may feel not at home here, I don't feel like i'm in another world. Everyone is just another person trying to live a successful life and be happy. The infrastructure of a city has nothing to do with the people and how they interact with their families and each other. Back to Cons. When one is abroad, the general situation is that they have to do it alone. This is great for inspiring one to be independent and be able to made decisions based almost solely on self, but the biggest flaw is when the times come that you do not want to be independent on an adventure. you want someone who knows you extremely well to experience the same thing you have and then discuss and break down the situation to gain a more full sense of the event.  Cons of home(s)- It's expensive. I can eat quite well and drink plenty of water for about 3.50 a day. My friend Mike and I went this evening to Chicken Inn across the road from the University and "splurged" on 9 cedi antibiotics for throat infections and then "splashed the cash" for amazing 5 cedi 50 pesewas double cheeseburgers. We then commented how much money we spent and how this has to be kept to a minimum in order to save money. Then we realized that at home we'd be getting an amazing deal with what we just considered to be a "very luxurious" evening meal. Many people at home are very distant and uninviting to random people on the street. The average Ghanaian is a very touchy and friendly lot with very few personal boundaries and a need to include everyone rather than automatically look out for number one. Being somewhere that prides itself on hospitality and openness is great.

I guess somewhere in this jumble of thoughts is the realization that all adventures come with risks of failure and disappointment, but this adventure for me has been nothing short of an incredible view into my own heart but also into those who grew up in a completely different system than I. Every day has been fun and interesting, but always tinged with an ok realization that I will be glad to be home soon. Missing certain people and places are huge reasons but just feeling that little bit of loneliness is hard, especially for someone who has never felt the slightest bit of homesick before. Hoping to get pictures up of some really amazing places up soon. Just want to wish everyone a good day and hope their upcoming week goes well.

You are Invited

I'm here to learn you some culture. Metc(imagine the c backwards) aborcbe daa. (meh toh abrobay daa) Congratulations, you can now say "I buy pineapple everyday" in Twi. More lessons can come later.
In other news, I just got a part in one of the plays changed to Mr. Mayhew (Witness for the Prosecution) so I will be playing a pretty significant role!! Hooray!
The phrase "You are invited" in Ghana is the traditional thing to say when one has food and enters a space with people or people enter the space where the food is. Even if the situation is obvious that the person only has enough food for one is is considered rude not to offer the food to everyone. Most people will not accept, but will feel offended if you do not invite them.
Today, my roomate Abraham and I went to the Accra mall in order to purchase authentic Ghana National team jerseys at the Puma store because they were 50% off. The crazy thing is that this purchase was easily the most expensive one I have made since I got here.
Tragedy has struck!!! I learned recently that the mango season is over and there will be no more mangoes until the next rainy season!!! I have left the land of genetically engineered super fruit!! Mango and pineapple in Ghana are two of the most delicious items one can ever eat. If you like pineapple in the US, you are missing out on the beauty and flavor that is Ghanaian white pineapple. Fun Fact: Kofi Annan (former UN head honcho-man) is not only Ghanaian, but he is a twin and his actual occupation is that of a pineapple farmer near Kumase.

Initial Observations

Welcome to my life in Ghana. I initially was skeptical about writing a blog, but I have discovered that I personally have a need to share my experiences as well as keep a record for myself of specific events.
My adventure in Ghana began a little over a month ago with a flight into Accra, the capital city. We arrived at around 10pm which for Ghana is quite late. The sun sets like clockwork at 6:30PM. Arriving in Ghana and not knowing who you are looking for, and what people want to take your bags for money or who is legit is quite the experience. After an initial shock we arrived at the Coconut Grove Hotel. This hotel is considered very high class and was a great experience. The hotel is actually owned by one of the presidential candidates in the upcoming election. He is a member of the CPP party. Staying at the hotel for a few days , the program members (myself included), got to know each other and start experiencing Ghanaian food. The food is quite amazing by the way. Some of my favorites at this time are banku with orkro stew or waakye (waa che) with noodles and an egg and plantains. One of the most amazing revelations about Ghana is the quality of the pineapple and pure pineapple juice. Heavenly!!
After leaving the hotel, we embarked for our various residences whether it be on campus or homestays. I was placed in a homestay in an area of town known as East Legon. This area is considered to be much more upscale than other areas. There was an odd collection of ridiculously nice houses along with unfinished houses and people living in run down homes. My family consists of the mother, Rejoice and her children Sammy, Bebe, Teria, Wahab, and Mubarak. Mubarak is six years old and we became quite good friends quickly. Rejoice's husband is in the army and was working in Chad and will soon be going to another African country for several months. After the first week, I had an unfortunate experience of having my computer stolen out of my house, someone cut ther screen and pulled in through the bars when I was sleeping and I woke up just in time to see him pull it out the windows, it was an unnerving experience but overall it hasn't dampened my fun and adventure and provided interesting insight into the cultural and judicial side of Ghana. All of the neighbors were very upset and kept insisting that if the person was caught they would go to jail or else get beat up pretty bad.
While on campus we engaged in the "registration" exercise, which consists of going all over campus to the various departments and using passport photos and a varying array of registration method whether ir be signing your name in a big book or entered into a computer. Every department on campus runs indeprendently so every registration was different and was quite confusing. Once I got it sorted out I was registered for several course which had to change over the next week!! My final schedule is now that I will be taking Modern European Drama, Play Analysis and Interpretation of Contemporary African Drama, Traditional Drumming, Traditional Dance, and Voice Lessons. This is all topped off with about 4 more weeks of Twi class. Learning the predominent local Akan language.
Other theatre news relates to the fact that I was cast in two theatre productions. The first is a private company putting on "Our Husband Has Gone Mad Again" which will be performing at the National Theatre of Ghana in Accra. The second is a U of Ghana production called "Witness for the Prosecution" by Agatha Christie. This will show for 4 nights at the outdoor Drama Studio and then for 4 nights again at the National Theatre. Both of my parts are small but I am very excited to be participating and learning.
One of the most interesting experiences one will have are using the taxis and Tro-Tros. The taxis are on a barter system where the driver gives you a price for your destination and then you smile and shake your head and offer half. Then you end up meeting somewhere in the middle. The ideas of seatbelts, traffic laws, pedestrian rights, and general santity on the roads are lost causes. Most of the roads are dirt with a few being paved in areas and potholes the size of which you could put a small child or goat. The tro tro experience is one which you will never forget and neither will my knees. For very cheap you get to cram yourself in a van which is very hot and crowded and has been modified to double it's "normal" capacity. While you intitally fear for your life it is something that is widely used and is really what "the people" use to travel around the city.
Suppose I should cover currency. The currency was recently redenominated from being in the 1,000s and is reduced to similar numbers as the US. The "cedi"(seedy) is relatively equal in value to the dollar and the cents are called "pesewas." Another thing taken for granted in the US is the idea of vendors having change for whatever bills you have at least up to 20 bucks. Another above the one cedi note is essentially useless. Whenever the atm gives you a ten cedi note is very hard to break it down to a smaller denomination unless you go to the mall or buy a lot of stuff.
The great thing about Ghana is the food and water(sorta). It is all quite cheap and delicious. I generally can eat lunch for about 95 pesewas depending on how much meat I get. The best invention in the world for a place where you can't drink the tap water is sachet water, or comonly referrred to as "Pure Water" Girls sell them on their heads for only 5 pesewas each and the contents abotu equal a 20 once bottle of water. The biggest downside of these is the waste and the amount of empty sachets all over the ground and clogging the "sewers".

I apologize for the essay but so much has happened to me. I really hope to get up a few pictures soon but it is difficult with the speed of internet. Speed is somewhat relative to if it's moving at all! While there are many differences and things to get used to there are just so many amazing things to see and do that are difficult to put into words. My friend Elliot and I went to a football match at the stadium in Accra and watched Liberty Professionals beat Heart of Lions 1-0. It was a fun experience and enjoyed Fanice and ghana's hotdog, the kabob.
Almost forgot!!! Fanice and Fanchoco are joining the sachet water among the worlds best inventions. Fanice products are sold my men riding bikes with large icechests and pastry boxes on the front. The fanice is vanilla icecream and the fan choco is chocolate. They sell for 30 and 40 pesewas respectively. They come in plastic sachets and add to the waste but when it's really hot and they are everywhere there is nothing better to eat and feel good about yourself.
At the end of last week I moved on campus because of a conflict of soccer and play rehearsals and the 45 minute commute from home to campus. I am now living at ISH, the International students hostel with Abraham who was one of the Ghanaians helping our program and us students to get acclimated to Ghana. He is an extremely nice guy and I was very lucky to be randomly put in his room. I might write another post in like five minutes or it may take me a week to get the page to load. Whatever the case, TIA!! Hope everyone is doing well and good luck and congrats to the Coe soccer teams for winning a bunch. hooray!!